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Thailand
Bangkok
Bangkok overwhelms on arrival and then becomes one of the easiest cities anywhere. Give it three days before you judge it.
Stays from €54 a night
The place
What Bangkok is actually like
Bangkok is a river city that forgot the river for fifty years and is now rediscovering it. The Chao Phraya is still the best way to move through the old town, and the express boats are cheap, fast and far more pleasant than the traffic above.
The city runs on two logics at once. Above ground there are skytrains, malls and rooftop bars; at street level there are markets, food carts and shophouses that have not changed in decades. Both are the real Bangkok and the trip should use both.
It is also the most cost-effective luxury in Asia. Five-star hotels routinely cost what a mid-range room costs in Europe, and a world-class meal at a street stall is a couple of euros. That gap is the reason people extend their stopovers.
Timing
When to visit
Honest seasonality — including the months we would not recommend.
- Busiest
Nov – Feb
Cool season
Dry and around 30°C, which is as comfortable as Bangkok gets. Book ahead.
- Balanced
Mar – May
Very hot
April tops 40°C. Songkran mid-April is extraordinary but the city half shuts.
- Quietest
Jun – Oct
Rainy season
Heavy but usually short afternoon downpours, lush and cheap. Not a write-off.
Neighbourhoods
Where to stay in Bangkok
Each area suits a different trip. Pick the one that matches yours.
Riverside
The grand hotels, the boats and the coolest air in the city
- Luxury
- Views
- Couples
Sukhumvit (Asok–Thonglor)
Skytrain on the doorstep, the best modern dining and nightlife
- First visits
- Nightlife
- Transport
Old City / Rattanakosin
Temples and the Grand Palace on foot, quiet after dark
- Sightseeing
- Culture
- Value
Ari
Leafy, local and full of the cafés and small restaurants Bangkok does best
- Repeat visits
- Food
- Calm
Stays
Popular hotels in Bangkok
Live prices from our accommodation partners for a sample three-night stay.
Things to do
What to do in Bangkok
- Wat Pho and the reclining Buddha at opening, then the ferry across to Wat Arun
- Chatuchak weekend market — 15,000 stalls, go early
- A longtail boat through the Thonburi canals
- Street food crawl through Chinatown's Yaowarat Road after dark
- A rooftop bar on the river at sunset
- Jim Thompson House, a genuinely lovely hour
Eating and drinking
- Boat noodles, khao man gai and som tam from street carts — the best food in the city
- Yaowarat at night, which is a food destination in its own right
- Michelin-starred Thai in Sukhumvit for a fraction of a European equivalent
- Fresh coconut and cut fruit from a cart, endlessly
Book ahead
Tours, tickets and day trips
Practicalities
Things worth knowing
Use the boats and the BTS, not taxis
Bangkok traffic is genuinely terrible. The Skytrain, MRT and river express boats bypass it entirely.
Ignore anyone who says a temple is closed
A long-running scam. The Grand Palace and major wats do not close for special ceremonies you are told about on the street.
Dress code at temples is enforced
Shoulders and knees covered at the Grand Palace and Wat Pho. Cover-ups can be hired at the gate but bringing your own is easier.
Eat where there is a queue of locals
The single most reliable heuristic in the city. High turnover means fresh, and popularity means good.
Orientation
Bangkok at a glance
Questions
Bangkok FAQ
How many days should I spend in Bangkok?
Three nights covers the temples, the river, a market and a proper eating day. Many people use it as a stopover, and two nights is enough for a first taste.
Is street food in Bangkok safe?
Overwhelmingly yes. Choose stalls with high turnover and food cooked to order in front of you — which describes most of them.
Which airport, Suvarnabhumi or Don Mueang?
Suvarnabhumi (BKK) handles most international traffic and has the Airport Rail Link into the city. Don Mueang (DMK) is the low-cost hub. Allow serious time if you have to transfer between them.
Do I need to haggle?
At markets, yes, politely and with a smile. In shops, malls and restaurants, prices are fixed.
Elsewhere
